Friday, January 11, 2013

Making Simplicity 7182

Simple Top Using Simplicity Pattern #7182
There are only two patterns pieces. There are no bindings or facings. The neckline, armholes, and hem are all turned up and hemmed.  I used my serger to finish the rough edges before hemming.
 The front and back are both cut on the fold.  The knit I am using is 60" wide so I refolded it with the selvage in the center leaving two folded edges for each pattern piece

This design has very wide shoulder seams. To keep it from stretching later and breaking the stitches I used narrow strips of the knit cut on the lengthwise grain (least stretchy) in place of stay tape.

Before making the first stitch on the garment, I stitched a test piece to check the stitches to be sure they would not pop when stretched and that there are no needle cuts.

If you pull the seam open and see tiny cuts in the fabric you need to change your needle.  Use a needle designed for knits in a size appropriate for your project.

OK - it's all sewn together - two side seams, two shoulder seams (with stay strips), and serged around the edges that will be hemmed. The neckline and armnole edges were turned under 1/2" and stitched down using a long stretch stitch, the bottom was turned up a little more to make a wider hem. If you haven't worked with knits much you might be tempted to throw in the towel at this point because it's likely the neckline will not look nice at all. Don't worry about the appearance at this point - a little steam and pressure will work magic.
I like using a medium length stretch stitch to hem knits when the stitching will be visible. Sometimes I will widen the stitch width to just barely enough to be noticeable to provide an extra measure of protection against popped stitches - you never know when a child will tug on your shirttail...

Cap sleeve edge was turned up to form a half inch hem
Press the hems.
Use the curves and surfaces of an ironing board for what they were designed for - pin block to the ironing board.  Use a pressing cloth and a lot of steam, applying downward pressure, press the hems.
The finished neckline, after pressing is smooth and flat. I pinned it to the ironing board cover as I pressed it and allowed it to cool.  Kind of like blocking a knit project.
Bottom hem is smooth and flat.
Finish up by pressing the side seams and shoulder seams
I probably should have stopped after pressing the side and shoulder seams but decided to go back and add a second row of topstitching to the hemmed edges
Finished bottom hem.  This is when I discovered that my top and bottom thread on my  sewing machine were different shades of red.  The first row of topstitching was done from the wrong side, and the top row from the right side.

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