This is the shirt project the Sewing Matters neighborhood group of the Roanoke Chapter of the ASG will be doing for February and March. It is a relatively simple 'camp shirt' with short sleeves, pockets, collar and buttons. This page will be my documentation of the steps I used to make my shirt.
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| First, the pattern was selected because it only requires six pattern pieces: front, back, back yoke, sleeve, collar, and pocket to be cut from the main fabric. The front facing is integrated with the shirt front. There is an additional pattern piece to be cut from interfacing that will be used to interface the center front and make a nicer presentation for the buttons and buttonholes. |
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| Using the pattern envelope, armed with my body measurements, I picked the size I will be making, XL. |
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I chose to trace off the pattern so I would be able to use it again if I discover there are fitting issues that require a larger size or adjusting. If you trace your pattern pieces, be sure to mark all the feature placements - notches, circles, squares, triangles, buttonholes, centerlines, etc. These are used to line up mating pieces and placement of pockets, the collar, buttons and buttonholes. There are even alignment marks for waistline, center front, etc. And don't forget to transfer the grainline marking.
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Next, I looked at the amount of fabric required. The pattern envelope only shows options for 45" and 60" wide fabric. A third option would be 108" wide cotton fabric used for quilt backing. It is available in a variety of prints and solids. I purchased one yard of this for my shirt and got lucky, it's just barely enough. The picture above shows the folded width about 52" after it was pre-washed and dried. It is important that you launder your fabric in the same manner as you will treat the finished garment. My fabric is 100% cotton, it will shrink, how much 'just depends.' Patterns do NOT have any allowance for shrinkage.
I had to play around with the layout to be able to cut out all pieces, paying attention to the grainline. It was a tight fit. For all the pieces of this pattern, it is important that the lengthwise grainline be observed. Notice how the sleeve goes across the fabric? You want the cross-wise grain going 'around' bod parts. You need the sleeve oriented this way so it will move properly as you move your arms. |
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